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and then our exile

Thursday, September 22, 2005 at 4:20 p.m.

i've started posting every day - direct relationship to the quantumly increasing amount of other work i need to do. "blogs: the new great escape", except that the word blog itself is so ugly. incandescence, such a prettier word.

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1. from the time i moved back to the rukn in early june till the day i left in early august, tahseen and myself instituted "moaz-freyz-haleeb nights". we would meet regularly, once a week or so, until late july, when we did so more often - we would meet after midnight outside the sham palace theatre and walk down to shari' bakistan, where he would order a strawberry-banana milkshake with cream and i would have an icecream-mango "imbirator". we would sit on plastic chairs by the side of the road and talk about the men and women and shuyukh in our lives, different classes we were taking and things we'd learned, ideas, societies... if we were hungry we would go to the fancy restaurant nearby and have soup and hommus. "they must think we're cheapskates." at about 2 or 2.30am we would walk back to saba' bahraat, where i would wait for a miekro and he would taxi back to mezzeh. once i took the camera along - behind me you can see the stairs to the fountain in the middle of the square, and the cell phone advertising above: "awfar bi k'tir!"

2. this man squeezes orange juice and sells it with crushed ice in the little glasses shown for 25liras - expensive relative to 5lira tamar hindi, but about $0.60CAN. this is when one is leaving the old city, and you can see white tourists sitting in the cafe on the far right. he's known by abu 'ala'.

3. "downtown." white van-type things are the infamous "miekros", otherwise known as public transportation. i must have mentioned them before. you stand by the side of the road and wave one down, tell the driver when to pull over to let you off. 5liras ($~0.12CAN) per ride, you pass your money to the person in front of you, who passes it on until it reaches the driver, who counts out and passes back change while navigating traffic. notice the absence of coloured lines on pavement, and also the advertising. it is less insidious than in the west, and sometimes made me laugh - once, on those very-same billboards, i saw a woman with light skin and dark hair, and "you too can have skin this white".

Blogger Unknown said...

:'(
its always the small things.
the awfar bi kathir, for some reason, cuts me.  

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Blogger Unknown said...

subhanAllah. and you caught the sign just as it was changing... for those who have never seen the european style billboards: theyre huge and made up of about long, rectangular strips - 4 sides each, like someone just took a normal billboard that was half a foot thick and cut it into strips, and put it back together. they put strips of ads on each of the 4 sides, and then every minute or so all of the strips turn clockwise and the ad shifts, so you get a new ad. the ad in the picture is in the middle of rotating...  

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Blogger Unknown said...

see? if you look you can see the lines where the rectangles are. these ones run lengthwise. theyre rotating upwards, about to display the ad plastered in segments on the other side.  

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Anonymous Anonymous said...

Toronto has billboards like that along its major highways as well. Some of them are so eye-catching that they should be considered driving hazards and outlawed. Similar to the big honking TV by that Finesse home furniture store on Whitemud.  

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Blogger basit said...

zacharia - we sound like we are pining and lovesick. billboards are made into objects of affection and notice. shaam no longer has the frankincence and myrrh, but it has billboards we will sigh at from thousands of kilometres away. :'(

taqa - one day i will see your face on a big honking TV saying "this charismatic dentist uses Finesse home furniture - and so should you."  

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Blogger basit said...

...definitions i forgot.

'the rukn' - ie. rukn ed-din, an area of damascus. as is mezzeh.

moaz - banana. freyz - strawberries. haleeb - milk.

saba' bahraat - "seven seas". the name of a square with a fountain in the middle.  

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